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When compiling a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred names. But, tucked high among these culinary titans is a modest salonu located in a distant area of northern London.

An Unexpected Accolade

This compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a influential culinary publication. This accolade has left the proprietors totally astonished.

“I’m utterly surprised,” states the proprietor, referring to his parents’ relentless work that led to their humble shop achieving such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This small shop, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its former feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the food, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent texture.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in less syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this modest spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for under £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

A Ethos of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not train at fancy restaurants. “I am truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is set to echo beyond its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this culinary achievement.